Englishman in New York31 Mar 2006 09:01 am

It’s our last full day today. We’ll be packing up the tent and heading north to Marfa.


The sign welcoming you to this tiny (pop. 2,400) one-stop Texas town reads MARFA IS HOW THE WEST WAS. Having seen little except olive-hued prairie grass, cacti, and tumbleweeds since driving out of El Paso a couple hundred miles back, you could well believe this claim. But if you turn south at the single flashing red light in the center of town and drive past the Border Patrol headquarters, you will soon find yourself leaving America’s mythic past for what is arguably the most cutting-edge art complex on the planet.

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