Paul Berger is a staff writer at The Forward. His articles have appeared in The New York Times, The Washington Post, The (London) Times, The Daily and Guardian.co.uk.

Jul
29

Denmark in the Summer

By
This side of Bønnerup harbor is empty in the winter.

Bønnerup harbor.

We’re back from Denmark. What a trip. I normally only see the place at Christmas, when the gray daylight fades around 3.30 pm. So it was quite a surprise to discover the small harbor town, Bønnerup Strand, where we usually stay, bathed in sunshine until after 9 pm and full of life.

"Fiskefileter" was one of the many new phrases I picked up in Denmark this summer

The reason for the crowds was Bønnerup Havnefest, two days of fried fish eating and Tuborg swilling.

Foamy fun for the kids in Bønnerup's bouncy castle

Foamy fun for the kids in Bønnerup's bouncy castle

When I saw the local fire fighters start to pump foam into a bouncy castle, I commented to my mother-in-law that you wouldn’t be able to do that in the US or UK because of health and safety. I even rued the day that the UK became so overprotective. A few days later, there was a news report that a little girl was discovered unconscious in the foam and almost drowned.

The harbor at Skagen.

The harbor at Skagen.

Other highlights of our trip, apart from cycling along the coastline on almost desolate bike paths and walking by the sea, was a trip to Skagen, in the far north of Jutland.

Dark clouds over Skagen. Rain is a fact of life during Denmark's summer.

Dark clouds over Skagen. Rain is a fact of life during the Danish summer.

Skagen is a small, yet very busy, fishing port. It’s also a favorite summer hangout for wealthy people from Copenhagen. I’ve seen it compared to the Hamptons. Though Sofie thinks a more apt comparison is Martha’s Vineyard. And I agree.

skagenhouse

The place is gorgeous. Pristine yellow houses line the tidy streets and the light over the entire area is spectacular–when the sun gets the chance to poke through.

"Summer Evening on Skagen's Southern Beach with Anna Ancher and Marie Krøyer" by Peder Krøyer

Peder Krøyer: Summer Evening on Skagen's Southern Beach with Anna Ancher and Marie Krøyer.

It was because of the light that Skagen attracted some of Denmark’s greatest artists of the late 19th and early 20th century, including Peder Krøyer (who died 100 years ago this November) and Michael and Anna Ancher. Skagen has a spectacular main art gallery and many other private galleries dotted around town. The food’s pretty good too, though I was a bit peeved to be charged $2 for a glass of tap water at the Brøndums Hotel. The service mentality is yet to arrive in Denmark.

Grenen: Where the North Sea and the Kattegat meet.

Grenen: Where the North Sea and the Kattegat meet.

Just north of Skagen is Grenen, the most northerly tip of mainland Europe, where the North Sea and the Kattegat meet.

rabjerg-mile

And just south of Skagen are the migrating sand dunes at RÃ¥bjerg Mile. Not what one normally pictures when they think of Denmark.

Overall, I would have to say that the most pleasurable aspect of the trip, apart from the chance to spend time with family, was the fact that the entire country seemed so peaceful. Even though it was peak holiday season, roads were largely half empty, beaches almost deserted, and along coastal paths there was just the odd family cycling by. It was the perfect escape.

One of the beaches at Bønnerup.

One of the beaches at Bønnerup.

Just remember to bring your kagool.

3 Comments

1

Great pictures. Not what I expected Denmark to look like. Welcome back to stress, pollution, impatience and traffic.

3

it sounded fun and v relaxing

Leave a Comment

pdberger on twitter

custom writing