September 2007


Englishman in New York27 Sep 2007 04:49 pm

Who knew underground travel could be so refined? The Tube offers fine dining. And, according to Callalillie, the subway sometimes features opera:

The life of a subway sardine is never fun. Anyone who lives in New York and uses public transportation encounters it, particularly during evening rush hour. It’s generally the same old story- the oblivions who refuse to move into the middle of the train, the person who insists on bringing smelly food onto a crowded car and eating it, the jerk who apparently thinks that his balls are too big to close his legs so that the correct number of people can sit on one bank of seats. The crowded commute home sucks. When this happens to me, I generally disembark hating everyone around me, including myself for settling in the city.

A few years ago I found myself in this situation. It was a cold winter day and the train was overheated. The F was running more slowly than usual, pausing between stops, and the number of people far exceeded the average person’s cubic feet of airspace needed for their patience to survive. The car was pretty quiet, perhaps the result of the uncomfortable conditions, or out of frustration, or maybe just the fact that it was the end of the day and everyone was really tired.

The sound crept into audibility slowly. It was almost as though someone had snuck a record player onto the train and gradually turned the volume knob up. It rose from the mass of disgruntled passengers and then abruptly stopped. People looked over their shoulders and then, just as we cast our eyes back down to the dirty floor, it began again. The smooth, steady tenor voice filtered through us- a beautiful sound yet the source was nearly impossible to identify. For ten minutes, as the train sat somewhere under the East River, the voice dissipated and surfaced, and finally, when the doors opened at York Street and people stepped aside, the singer was revealed: a short, balding, slightly odd looking man with a nervous smile. More passengers piled in at Jay Street and as soon as he was hidden by people, the short bursts of melodic opera began once more.

I never could figure out exactly what motivated this man. Part of me wondered if it was some sort of Tourette-like affliction, though it is quite possible that the guy just really loved to sing. Regardless, last night while I was on my way home in an airless, packed 2 train, this little man came to mind and I could not help but yearn for him. Of all the oddities that I have encountered in New York- the bizarre, the vulgar, the troublesome and the humorous- the opera man was the most spontaneously joyful. Remembering him as a woman rested one large ass cheek firmly on my thigh, the other on the entire seat next to me, I couldn’t help but smile. Maybe New York needs more nervously-inclined spontaneous opera singers. For now though, I’m just content with the memory.

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Englishman in New York26 Sep 2007 01:43 pm


Very cute. (Via Clive Davis.)

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Englishman in New York25 Sep 2007 12:48 pm

Mahmoud Ahmadinejad is in New York to address the UN. Yesterday, he spoke at Columbia University. There are many who think Columbia was wrong to invite him, but I can’t think of a better setting to challenge the Iranian president. This moment, live blogged by the New York Times City Room, was one of the highlights:

In response to a question about the treatment of homosexuals in Iran, Mr. Ahmadinejad was initially evasive, instead talking about the death penalty, which, he pointed out, exists in the United States. “People who violate the laws by using guns, creating insecurity selling guns, distributing guns at a high level are sentenced to execution in Iran,” he said. “Very few of these punishments are carried out in the public eye.”

Pressed by Dean Coatsworth on the original question about the rights of gay men and lesbians in Iran, Mr. Ahmadinejad said: “In Iran, we don’t have homosexuals like in your country. We don’t have that in our country.”

The audience booed and hissed loudly. Some laughed, uncomfortably.

“In Iran, we do not have this phenomenon,” Mr. Ahmadinejad continued, undeterred. “I do not know who has told you that we have it.”

Which begs the question, if homosexuality does not exist in Iran why is it a crime punishable by death?

Related: Lee Bollinger is having the best week ever. (Daily Intel)

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Englishman in New York21 Sep 2007 10:45 am

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One of the great things about being in LA is that the three hour time difference has given me a head start on the day. At last, I have the time to post the pictures that mum and uncle Mike have been waiting for. Well folks, here she is, Machu Picchu, perched on the side of a mountain in the Andes.

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We spent about six hours at Machu Picchu, but to be honest we could have done with at least a couple of days. The sunlight was constantly changing and the site looked different almost every 15 minutes. It’s well known that Machu Picchu is a nightmare during the middle of day, when the train from Cusco bring daytrippers. But by about 3pm, the place is almost empty again and you can really appreciate the beauty and tranquility of the site.

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Here’s a slightly wider view, but there’s much more. Maybe Sofie can remember which part of Machu Picchu this is? I think it’s looking towards the residential quarters. Between 800 and 1,000 people once lived here, the more affluent people towards the top of the site and blue collar workers like farmers and laborers towards the bottom.

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There were so many places for Sofie and I to explore at Machu Picchu, walks, trails, ruins. But at the end of a long week, and having traveled so far, we found that the best thing to do was to find a good vantage point away from other people and just sit and take it all in. This is the view we had, albeit from a slightly strange angle. It was probably the highlight of our trip; just sitting, talking and watching the clouds roll by.

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As the light started to fade around 5pm whistles sounded around the site. It was time to leave. We made our way across Machu Picchu vowing to return the next morning for sunrise. Unfortunately, it wasn’t to be. Sofie was struck down with a mystery illness within a couple of hours of our descent of the mountain and we spent the following day exploring the grounds of our hotel in the cloud forest, where we saw umpteen hummingbirds, orchids and a rare bird known as the cock-of-the-rock. And to be honest, I really didn’t mind. Because the only memory I have of Machu Picchu now is the one above, one of the best days out Sofie and I have ever had.

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Because Peru would not be Peru without a picture of a llama.

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Englishman in New York20 Sep 2007 09:28 am

Back soon.

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Englishman in New York17 Sep 2007 10:57 am

More praise for All the Money in the World in this weekend’s Sunday Styles section of the New York Times:

Studded with tables, charts and sidebars, “All the Money in the World” is full of rags-to-riches stories and colorful anecdotes that make it as compulsively readable as best sellers like Michael Gross’s “740 Park” and Steven Gaines’s “Philistines at the Hedgerow.”

Considering whether or not to post about this reminded me of one of my favorite episodes of Blackadder, in Season 4:

George: You know it’s funny, but painting was the only thing I was ever any good at.

Blackadder: Well, it’s a pity you didn’t keep it up.

George: Well, as a matter of fact I did, actually. I mean [takes out pictures] I mean normally I hadn’t thought I would show them to anyone, because they’re just embarrassing daubs really, but you know, ah, they give me pleasure. I’m embarrassed to show them to you now as it happens, but there you go, for what they’re worth. To be honest, I should have my hands cut off, I mean…

Blackadder: George! These are brilliant! Why didn’t you tell us about these before?

George: Well you know, one doesn’t want to blow one’s own trumpet.

Blackadder: You might at least have told us you had a trumpet…

In video here.

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Englishman in New York15 Sep 2007 11:51 pm

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Since commenter Kittlittered tagged me with the 8 Things About Me meme, I don’t see that I have any choice. Here’s 8 random things about me (bottom right, aged 10):

1. If I hadn’t been called Paul, my mum would probably have named me Noah.
2. The longest train journey I have ever took was 96 hours, from Novgorod to Irkutsk, Russia (including a few hours in Moscow to change trains).
3. Watching people bite into an ice cream, or even thinking about biting into an ice cream, sends a shiver down my spine.
4. I seem to have developed a (weak) phobia of cows. (I’ve written about it before here.)
5. I can speak fluent Russian, but my German is limited to “I am too weak for this life” (thanks to Liukchik) and my Finnish is limited to “an independent woman.”
6. I have stared down the barrel of a gun—it’s a lot larger close up.
7. My favorite pen is the Pilot P700 (fine). They retail for less than $2.
8. I never wanted to live in New York, but now I’m here I don’t want to live anywhere else.

Over to you Clive and you Jen.

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