Did I mention that Ilha Grande was one of the most perfect places I have ever seen? Our final day on the island we decided to put our previous day’s nightmare behind us and we headed out early for a 40-minute boat ride to nearby Las Palmas Cove.

We stopped in the cove (above) for a quick swim before gathering our things and heading off on a 30-minute walk along hilly jungle paths that took us to another side of the island and to Ilha Grande’s most famous beach, Lopes Mendes.

This is the view of the busier side of Lopes Mendes. Behind the camera, stretching for about a mile is a slowly curving coastline and beach that must have been populated by less than 30 people. The sand is so soft and fine that it actually squeaks underfoot, a little like freshly fallen snow.

After a relaxing few hours that included much splashing around in the sea and a quick game of Frisbee we headed back through the forest to Las Palmas Cove. On the way, we heard some rustling in the trees about 15 feet away to our right and saw a troop of medium-sized monkeys, possibly about two feet tall, making their way slowly along the branches.

Back at Las Palmas Cove we had 25 minutes to spare before the departure of a boat that would take us back to the main port, so we took advantage of the cove’s floating bar. To save us having to rush our beers, the barman signaled for the boat to pull up alongside the bar to pick us up. A couple of hours later we were on a ferry heading back to the mainland. If you ever go to Rio do not miss the opportunity of visiting Ilha Grande. I promise, you won’t regret it.

Tomorrow: Final thoughts.

Ilha Grande is without a doubt one of the most perfect places I have ever seen. You would think that it would be almost impossible to spoil. Yet somehow, this guy managed to turn an idyllic day trip into a nightmare.

On our second day on Ilha Grande we bought tickets for a day trip that took us on a lagoon and bay hopping tour of the island. As part of the trip we were promised a stop for lunch but the crew waited until we were halfway around the island (and tired from sunbathing and swimming) to tell us that we would not eat until 4pm. (The boat was full, including some parents with tired and hungry young children.) The crew also insisted on shattering the tranquility of the island by playing Brazilian and European pop music at almost deafening levels.

I don’t want to dwell too much on what happened. But I do want to warn anyone who goes to Ilha Grande to take care if they book one of the day trips aboard a schooner.

I am sure that most companies operating on the island are very good. So don’t be dissuaded from taking these trips. But do stop into the information office in Vila Do Abraao and ask the very friendly Amelia Wiccamel for a recommendation before you buy a ticket.

P.S. Just for the record, I don’t blame the guy above. He was just doing his job. And Benito and I (especially Benito) managed to make his day equally nightmarish with our constant complaints. But whoever runs this one particular company really does not care about the quality of your day.

Tomorrow: A Happy Ending.

Hard to believe that just two days ago we were on Ilha Grande, a tropical island a couple of hours and a short boat ride from Rio.

Ilha Grande was the perfect end to a fantastic holiday. The almost 200 sq kilometer island (about 80 sq miles) is a mountainous state park covered in jungle that is rich in wildlife, including monkeys and parrots. Motor vehicles are banned so the only way to reach most of the island’s pristine beaches is by water taxi or by schooner, like the one pictured above. We spent a long weekend on Ilha Grande, leaving Rio, Friday, on a 5.30am bus with two Brazilian friends Janaina and Benito, and arriving on the island around 9am. Within an hour or so we had found a hotel, dumped our things, and set off for three beaches that were within easy walking distance (about a half hour).

Depending on the beach, the sand on Ilha Grande is golden yellow or a powdery white. The water is cool and clear. Within an hour or so, Benito and I rented snorkels and masks and started exploring the sea life close to shore, mainly red and black starfish or tropical fish up to about 10 inches long. Although we were within easy reach of the island’s main town, Vila Do Abraao, I would say that we shared the beaches with, at most, about a dozen people. This is one of those beaches. We spent so long out there, that with the sun about to set, we had to take a water taxi home. A perfect end to a beautiful day.

Next up: Trouble in Paradise.